New (old) Wheel - "Wee Peggy" Denise

The transaction is final and I have my new/old wheel. I ended up selling one of my Louet wheels, but it was worth it for the Wee Peggy wheel. These are hard to come by.

It has the capability for double drive and Scotch tension. The ratios are somewhere around 5:1 and 7:1. While this may not be stellar, this is quite good for my purposes. I am currently spinning laceweight at somewhere between 48-51 wpi singles for the Orenburg lace scarf.

It needed a bit of beeswax polish as the wood was rather dry, the leather for the flyer needs some extra oil, and the bobbins need a bit of extra sanding on the inside so the threads don't catch. Other than that, she is fantastic!

So, here's my finished shawl...some weaving mistakes are there, but all in all, I'm pleased with the results. Next time, I won't weave when I'm tired.

Lisa

My newest weaving project - Lisa

This is a lacy shawl, in bamboo...can you see the pattern? It took me forever to find the time to measure the warp and dress the loom, but now the weaving is going very quickly. I plan to enter it in the Montana State Fair.

Although these are English type combs, the idea is the same for handheld combs:

Spinning for Orenburg Snowflake Scarf - Denise

I have a goal in mind. I am going to spin my yarn for the Orenburg Snowflake Scarf as seen in the Interweave Piecework Magazine.

It calls for 2 skeins of Windy Valley Muskox Quiviut Luxury Blend yarn (45% quiviut/45% of merino/10% silk). The balls are about 218 yards/1 oz. They run about $65 each. It called for 2 balls or 436 yards.

I can spin. I don't have muskox, but I do have yak down ($35/#). I don't have extra fine merino, but I do have Cormo. I do have Tussah silk.

OK, now for the mighty math skills. For the 2 ounces, I need ratios of 45%, 45%, and 10%. I used the metric system since it was more accurate. One skein is - 12.7 g of yak, 12.7 g of Cormo, 2.8 g of silk. Multiply that by 2 and I have my amount.

Now, how fine do I spin. I searched the internet for something to help. Nada. I remembered I downloaded SpinTech on my Droid phone for $1.99 (If you have an iPhone probably use iSpin). It has a calculators and tools that allowed me to play with the numbers to get the right yardage with wpi.

• Singles - 49.5 wpi
• 2 Ply - 35 wpi

Wow! Now, before I panicked, I realized that this was for wool and not yak. Yak is lighter than wool. This means I'll need to do some sampling before I get spinning.

So far, I've used the hand carders to sample [I've given you the link to see how I've done it] and my Turkish drop spindle to spin. I want to get the feel of the fiber, see the twist.

The first photo [right] shows my sampling so far. The speckled skein [top] is the ratio with silk noil. I wanted to see the effect. I like it, but it won't be appropriate for a lace scarf. The bottom skein is just yak and cormo. Nice, but it lacks an extra bit of shine and softness. I'm spinning up the proper blend right now. I'm trying to get a fine and strong yarn with enough twist to hold it together but still have some bounce to it. Before I wind on I test it to see if it looks right as a 2 ply. It's pretty close [right].



When I go full scale, I'll use Twosheep's method with the drum carder. As with any spinning project, its best to measure and spin up more than you need. Murphy's Law will strike and you will run out. The probability is determined by how difficult the yarn is to get or spin.

I've Dropped an Edge Stitch - Denise

We've all done this, or maybe this is your first time. The panic sets in and you see the long loops at the edge. What to do?

First take a deep breath. The worst thing that will happen is to rip out. Before that happens, calm down and take a look. Look at the stitches and the large loop(s). See the pattern? First, if you’re not up to fixing it, get a locking marker and stop the ladder from running further. If you are up to it, follow the directions below. This can be fixed in Four Easy Steps.

"From The Knitter’s Companion: When an edge stitch drops and ravels, there is no “ladder,” just large loops extending from the edge above a small loop.

1. Insert a crochet hook into the small loop, from front to back, then hold the large loop with some tension as you pull the lower part of the large loop through the loop on the hook to form a stitch.
2. With the hood in the stitch just made, pull the upper part of the large loop through this loop to form another stitch. Repeat steps 1 and 2 as many times as necessary.
3. With the hook in the last stitch made, pull the working yarn through this loop.
4. Place the last stitch on the needle, making sure that the leading leg is in front of the needle."

Finished Columbia Blanket - Denise

As promised, here is the picture of my finished blanket. I added the satin binding. This is a light-weight and warm throw blanket. I've already had to kick the cats off to use it.

• I had to be careful of a few things.
  
• The nature of Columbia fleece is a bouncy. It is crisp and soft at the same time. This made the weft quite stretchy.
  
• When I added the binding (non-stretch) I had to be careful no to distort the fabric. Before beginning, I hit the ends with a few quick shots with the steam iron. If anything was stretched, this brought it back into shape.
  
• I carefully pinned and overlapped the ends with the satin. I used a simple zig-zag stitch to attach.

I used the Toothbrush nalbinding stitch using a large yarn darning needle. It makes a nice, clean, strong edge

• After attaching and looping around my thumb twice (it will be hidden by the binding) I picked up the stitches.
  
• The shot of warp thread (I had some long spaces that I needed to pick up 2 warp threads),
  
• the last stitch made (2nd loop - it will appear after you make it. Just do the 1st stitch twice),
  
• then under the thumb. Be careful not to pull the stitch too tight or it will pucker the entire fabric.
  
• It is easier to use manageable lengths and spit-join the pieces. No one will know.

I do have mistakes in this blanket. Some I cleverly hid. Others I left so I will remember.

A bit quiet - Denise

It's been a bit quiet here, not on purpose. I had a bit of a set-back. On Tuesday, I had stomach pains. That should have been the first clue. Wednesday, the pain hadn't gone away. I called my husband away from work to take me to the Clinic.

I had high white blood cell count - an infection of some kind. After a CT scan (I'll spare the details) I had an emergency appendectomy late Wednesday night. I'm good, healthy, and strong. My pets have snuggled in. My husband has taken time off work to care for me. The kids are quiet - ish. I have some time on my hands. The boredom will get to me first.

As for Un-Finished Projects, I've completed my woven blanket. I put the satin binding on and added a nalbinding edge to the sides. I'll post photos shortly and describe the process. It does make a nice finished edge when one isn't there already. I used the samenalbinding stitch as the Toothbrush rag rug.

I knitted another cuddly bunny blanket. It's a Lion Brand bunny blankie out of handspun alpaca. I modified the pattern a bit. I don't like the directions. Because I am more experienced as a knitter, I do feel comfortable changing things.

I watched Margaret Stove's video to prepare locks and spin lace.

I'll finish threading my loom later. Maybe the loom faeries will do it for me...

New Toothbrush Needles

I went to Dollar Tree and found they had 5 packs of toothbrushes with the holes in the end. Now that I have a few made, I am happy with the effect they have on my rug making. The needle slides through the fabric easily without binding.

Modifying these is easy if you have the tools. Luckily, I have them here at the house. If you don't, you may consider looking around your neighborhood and asking for some help. You may barter something for use of the tools (scarf, hat, mittens)

1. I used my bolt cutters to cut off the top. This did a better job than tin snips or any other cutter. The plastic didn't shatter. A plus in my book.
2. I took my file filed the tip down over the garbage can. I'd stop periodically to check my progress. I wanted a more pencil-like pointy tip so I filed at an acute angle. It took a bit longer, but was worth it.
3. I took some 150 grit sand paper and sanded down the edges, rounding down the edges. Don't forget to sand down the butt end as well. Your fingers will thank you.
   
4. I used some 320 grit sand paper to finish the process and get off all the rasp marks. The end product looks pretty good. I have 3 done so far.
   

Yes, this is one of my cats. She makes sure my rugs and fabric strips don't float away. She helps my needles go through the holes or loops depending on what technique I'm using.

Next Get Together - Learn Toothbrush Rag Rugs

We’re looking at January 15^th as our next get together at my house. Let’s start around 10’ish. Toothbrush Rag Rugs don't take long to understand. The challenge is starting. The stitches are repetitive. Don't worry, you'll get it.

We’ll make “needles” made from Popsicle sticks unless you want to go online and buy one. Just Google Toothbrush Needles and you will find some. They cost somewhere around $4-7. You’ll need to bring your own cloth. I used some old sheets I ripped up into strips (kids helped – it was fun). You can use anything: old t-shirts, dress shirts, blue jeans, silks, leather (don’t ask me how), any material. Hit sales or the 2^nd Hand Stores. How wide? Well, I measured with my first 2 fingers. For me that’s about 1½”. A 2” strip will get you a 7/8” stitch. A 1” strip will get you a 5/8” stitch: roughly ½ ratio.

We’ll use Amish knots to connect the strips so you won't need to join the lengths with anything. If you want to put slits in the ends you can – you don’t have to. To do so, just fold over the end about a thumb width. Snip a bit lengthwise down the center so there is a slit. Depending on the thickness of the fabric, I do two ends at once and then wind them onto a ball to manage them better. My cat loves this craft. If you don’t want to do this, we can do it here. Some people like to do prep work, some don’t. I’m about ½ and ½. My kids helped quite a bit so I did more prep work, faster.

This is a kind of nalbinding. It passes the time. I’m making one for my dad’s birthday right now.

Toothbrush Rag Rugs - Denise

I'm making progress. I decided to make my own needle. I read a post from BellWether that she had used a Popsicle stick. So I thought, "Why Not!"

I scored one from my daughter's DayCare center (Thanks TLC Center) and filed and sanded it to shape. I used my Yankee driller to make the hole. I used paraffin wax (that's what I had on hand) to seal it so it wouldn't catch on the flannel sheet strips. I do have a beeswax candle somewhere in the house. It's somewhere really safe right now.



That done, I find that it really is easier to use a needle that a bodkin. The metal hoop on the bodkin kept catching in the loops. Now, I'm going much faster.



This is actually fun! Looking at the photo, I need to vary the placement of my color changes to hide them a bit better.

Oh, to make the needle, I found the center line first. I measured down from the tip about 1/2". I use my file to roughly shape the lines and round things out. I sanded out the roughness with 200 grit sandpaper. I took my Yankee driller and drilled out the back end 3/8" up. The hole is about 3'8" - 1'2" long. I sanded it smooth with folded paper.

Toothbrush Rag Rugs - Denise

I'm on a learning curve here. I've learned that I don't need a toothbrush to work my Toothbrush rug. I'm using a bodkin that I bought at JoAnne Fabric for $1.74. I'll try a Popsicle stick later.

I've learned by trial and error how to do the stitches. I have a few videos to list to help out.
Here's one for the basic beginning steps. It's a YouTube video that I can't embed here.
The next is this for the stitches. This guy is good is examples, but does ramble a bit.

After you get going, the stitches are a bit complicated to visualize. I was stumped and made one heck of an ugly rug. Then I got it after watching some videos. If I pick up the proper stitches in the proper order, then I'll get the braided effect.

Increasing is a puzzler. Some say to increase here and there. Others suggest at certain points. The best way I've found it to let the rug do the talking. It was mentioned to look for the 90 degree angle. What in the world were they talking about? Then as I turned the corner of my rug, I saw it. See the photo below.

MATH AND LOGIC
So far, I’ve found information about buying fabric. You ready? BellaOnline describes the process and the ratios.
1/2# will make one foot squared
1# = 4 yards of cloth (I’m guessing of 36”).
12 yards of cloth will make a 2’x3’ rug
2” strip = 7/8” stitch
1” strip = 1/2” stitch

Math: 2’x3’=6 ft squared. 6 x 1/2 = 3#. 3x4=12 yards

Other math and logic

• Increase on the 1st curve twice (if it works that way). The next 3x. Do so several times. You may need to increase 4, 5, or 6x. Look to where there is a gap. Fill the gap.

• For an oval rug, make the braid or chain stitch beginning 1/3 as long intended total. 12” for a 36”x24” rug.

• If your rug cups, add in stitches at strategic places.

Homemade Raddle - Denise

Here we go. After my adventure (fiasco) using sectional warp with my camp towels, I discovered that irregular stripes were probably easier and wiser to do with a warping board and then warped using a raddle.

I didn't have one. I looked up on some sites and found that ones for my loom would cost around $50 + s/h. I searched some sites and found that I could indeed make one for myself.

I looked up and found that 1x2 pine lumber is about $5 for 86". Use a soft wood so it doesn't split when nailing. Otherwise you will need to drill a small starter hole.That would give me 2 raddles of 43" for my 36" loom. That puts 2" beyond the desired loom width to clamp. The finishing nails I need are 1-1/2" bright finishing nails. I could buy 1000 or a smaller assorted box for $2.99.

I don't like sanding so I painted mine with leftover satin paint, 2-3 coats. I measured roughly 1/2 way down the good side and drew a light line. I then made 1" marks for where the nails would go starting with the center and moving outward from both sides.



I then started at one end and carefully hammered the nails in. On the second one I left the very end one off. I needed something to clamp, logically. I'll go back and pull the end nails later.


I only hit my thumb once when distracted. I painted the center with fingernail polish. If desired, I could drill a hole in the end and put a eye bolt in so I can hang it from the wall when not in use.


This won't snag on yarns. I'll keep you updated on how it works.

Newest Projects - Blanket Undulating Twill (Denise)

Some of you may remember my spun Columbia. I’ve dyed it navy blue for the warp and mauve for the weft. I’ve learned to gently set the weft in place to get the pattern to properly show itself. When done, I’ll cut and sew the two halves together for a nice blanket. I'll decide how to finish and enclose the ends when the time comes.

In all honesty, I made a gaff when dyeing. I forgot to loosen all the ties on the woodrose. I also didn’t move it around in the pot as much as I should have. Readjusting the yarn in the pot makes sure the dyes are spread out for even distribution. Now I have slightly space-dyed woodrose. I didn’t bother redyeing because it would look worse. I remembered my mistakes for the navy and everything turned out just fine. As it is, it has grown on me - 5+ yards of cloth will do that.



The dyes are Cushings this time. The dyes are consistent and fesh. The mistakes are mine. Here's the color card.

Lunch Out - Lisa, Dawn and Denise

We decided to meet for lunch during the rushing about of the season. Chilli's was close. Coupon's were at hand.

We solved the world's problems, as always. Solved our problems: more fiber. We laughed and had a good time. We tried not to tease the waitress too much.

Considering it was about -20 degrees below F, we survived the drive, meal and trip back. We all hunkered down at jobs and home. We had a "heat wave". What we call a chinook. A warm south-western wind that melts the snow away. Now it's only snowy and 15 degrees out. Pleasant in comparison.

Making Your Acid Dyes Work For You - Denise

I'm a member of Dyehappy (Yahoo). The daily discussions and posts have improved my understanding of the different dyes and their preferred uses. I'm no expert, but I've gone from "What?" to "Got it."

In a post the other day one person asked about the amount of vinegar to use in preparing a dye bath for dyeing wool. Her concern was since the recipe was for American vinegar (5%) and she had (I guess) German (she referred to vinegard at 35%). She wanted to know know how much to use.

To sum up, poster Ian Bowers (from the UK) explained the exact amount depends on pH level. Now, I can see everyone's heart's begin to palpitate and palms begin to sweat. This isn't going to be a science class...not really. With M. Bower's help, I now understand how managing the dyebath will help me get better, more consistent results in dyeing. The amount of fiber and strength of acid is of very little importance. (Just go with me here - I've had my dye strike too fast with too much acid.) With acid dyes, maintaining the acid will allow the dye to strike at a consistent and controlled rate. I won't waste my resources.

Lets begin.

1. Get some pH strips. You will need those. They should be available where you buy your pool or spa chemicals. Sometimes even at (cringe) Wal-mart.
2. You need to check the pH of the water you use. M. Bowers' place of work has pH that varies from 7.5-9.3 in one day. Mine is processed river water. You can use filtered water.
   
3. M. Bowers says, "The only competent way is to place the fibre in the bath and then add vinegar (or citric acid if cost is no object), aim for pH around 6 (except for some Jacquard dyes which are strong acid dyes and require a pH around 4. Ideally check the pH at 'half-time' and adjust with more acid if necessary. As an aside, brown vinegar does not stain the fibre, and is cheaper.

For some people this may seem like a lot of standing around, but I'm there watching my fiber anyway. I have the strips. I've had "interesting" dyeing experiences and not understood why. I'm beginning to piece together the science behind it.

New Spool Rack (Denise)

I've been waiting for my dad to make me a spool rack. For a variety of reasons, the project has been put off. Well, I got tired of waiting since my loom was sitting empty and was ready for my next project. I needed a spool rack to use with my sectional warp.

I made my own spool rack out PVC pipe. This is functional, and almost literate as a weaving tool.
To make this project, you'll need the following:

• 4 - 90 degree elbows
• 2 - 10' lengths of 3/4" PVC pipe (I found some pre-cut lengths so I only had to buy one)
  
• 2 - 1/2" pipe about 2' long (I found some pre-cut lengths)
  
• PVC pipe cutters (I used the ratcheting kind)
• tape measure
• permanent marker
• 3/16" round wire (for the spools)
• drill and drill bit larger than 3/16"
  
• bolt cutters (cut the wire)
• 2 self tapping screws 1-1/4" long
  

This construction is not exact science. So, decide a how many spools across? I did 4. It came out about 20-1/2"... on the inside, give or take. The wire needs to be a bit wider than half-way so it will stick in the holes and slots. The permanent marker is good for marking on PVC pipe.

It's about 41" long. I measured every 4" (centered 2" for the holes) along the sides on an extra piece as a template so the sides would be even. I drilled holes on one side and a slot on the other. Again this isn't exact or perfect. It will do, for now.

The 3/16" gauge round wire comes in 36" lengths. I could get 2 sections. So for 40 spools, that's 5 wires cut roughly in half and trimmed to fit.

The last step was to drill the 1/2" PVC pipe to the 3/4" pipe using the self tapping screws as a support.
Good luck!

First Overshot

Thank you to Lisa and Dawn for forcing me into learning woven overshot.

I sat down with Lisa and threaded the table loom. Later I fixed the crossed threads. With Dawn, we went through how to read the pattern. It would have been easier on the floor loom. With the table loom we had to push down individual levers each time rather than have grouped patterns set up on the foot treadles. Ah well, such is life.

My latest creation...a string market bag..find the pattern at Knitty.com. The Everlasting Bagstopper!

Lisa

A pile of luscious dyed roving...Kool-Aid, Crystal Light, and Kroger drink mixes. I think my next dye pot will be a blend of Kool-Aid Boo-berry (blue) and something green. Probably Crystal Light Lemon-Lime.

Lisa